Kurukshetra December, 2025

Khadi—India’s iconic hand-spun and handwoven fabric—symbolizes the convergence of heritage, sustainability, and rural livelihoods.

• From its ancient civilizational origins and central role in the freedom struggle to its contemporary revival as a premium, eco-conscious textile, Khadi reflects India’s evolving development narrative.
• In the context of climate change, ethical consumption, and inclusive growth, Khadi has re-emerged as a pillar of sustainable development.

Post-Independence Institutional Support

• Post-Independence, the sector was institutionalised through the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), 1957. KVIC’s mandate includes:
• Supplying raw materials
• Improving production techniques
• Ensuring quality control
• Marketing and sales promotion
• Generating sustainable rural employment

Despite this, Khadi gradually lost mainstream appeal and became associated with political attire and outdated fashion, remaining largely outside contemporary fashion until the late 1980s.

Designer-Led Revival

• The late 1980s–1990s marked a revival phase. Designers such as Devika Bhojwani (1989) and Ritu Kumar (1990) introduced:
• Innovative textures and dyeing techniques
• Contemporary patterns and silhouettes
• Fashion-forward interpretations

Though initial impact was limited, these efforts repositioned Khadi as a premium, artisanal, and sustainable fabric, aligning it with rising demand for authenticity and eco-conscious fashion.

Material and Technological Innovations

Recent resurgence is driven by material and process innovation:

• Blending with linen, bamboo, hemp, Tencel, and silk to improve durability, drape, and functionality
• Use of low-impact dyes and eco-friendly finishing techniques

Khadi in the Context of Global Fashion and Sustainability

The global fashion industry is valued at approximately USD 1.3 trillion, employs over 300 million people, and is one of the world’s most polluting industries. By 2030, the sector’s:

• Water consumption is expected to rise by 50%
• Carbon emissions by 63%
• Waste generation to 148 million tonnes

India’s apparel market, projected at USD 59.3 billion (2022), is the sixth-largest globally, driven by rapid urbanization, rising incomes, digital retail, and demand for affordable aspirational fashion.

Women Empowerment

• 57.45% of 7.43 lakh trainees were women
• Women constitute 80% of Khadi artisans
• Artisan wages increased by 275% in 11 years

Challenges Facing & the Way Forward for Khadi Sector

Conclusion- Once a symbol of resistance and rural empowerment, Khadi has re-emerged as a pillar of sustainable development, inclusive growth, and cultural identity. Backed by policy support, design innovation, and environmental awareness, it bridges tradition and modernity. With continued reforms and market integration, Khadi can both preserve India’s textile heritage and lead the future of ethical and sustainable fashion.

Khadi exemplifies India’s model of grassroots-led, inclusive development. From a symbol of resistance during the freedom struggle, it has evolved into a modern economic driver under Aatmanirbhar Bharat, integrating self-reliance, sustainability, and cultural identity.

Growth and Economic Impact

Between 2013–14 and 2024–25:

• Production rose from Rs. 811 crore to over Rs. 3,700 crore (≈4.5×)
• Sales increased from Rs. 1,081 crore to over Rs. 7,000 crore (≈6.5×)
• Employment: ~5 lakh artisans, 80% women

As per MSME Annual Report 2024–25, Khadi sales (including polyvastra and solarvastra) reached Rs. 5,352 crore (till Dec 2024), generating 4.99 lakh jobs.

In the North-Eastern Region, FY 2024–25 (till Dec) sales touched Rs. 1,247.93 lakh, with production of Rs. 1,313.89 lakh.

Modernization, Global Reach and Artisan Support

KVIC is modernizing Khadi through 24 retail centers, including India’s first Khadi Mall at Connaught Place (20,000 sq. ft.), which uses AI-based virtual try-ons and records an annual turnover of over Rs. 100 crore.

• Khadi’s global presence has expanded via the 2017 KVIC–Arvind Mills agreement. Patagonia placed orders worth Rs. 1.88 crore, while Khadi trademarks are registered in 15 countries and logos in 31 countries. Exports stood at Rs. 37.88 crore in 2023–24, with markets such as China, Russia and Tanzania, and overseas retail is being explored, including Thailand.
• To strengthen the artisan base, spinning wages increased from Rs. 10 to Rs. 12.50 per hank, weaving wages rose by 7%, and Market Development Assistance offers 35% incentive (cotton, wool, polyvastra) and 30% (silk). Workshed Scheme, ISEC (4% interest) and Rs. 15 lakh support per weak sales centre further improve livelihoods.
• Digital and skill initiatives include eKhadiIndia.com (2021), KIMIS, and the Centre of Excellence for Khadi (CoEK) at NIFT and regional centres, with CoEK 2.0 focusing on design innovation and product diversification.

Protect, Promote and Propel: Three P’s of Khadi

The Ministry of MSME supports Khadi through a comprehensive “3P approach” – Protect, Promote and Propel, aimed at modernising production, strengthening infrastructure, diversifying products, and expanding market access to sustain Khadi’s relevance in an Aatmanirbhar Bharat. Key schemes supporting Khadi include:

• Khadi Gramodyog Vikas Yojana (KGVY): Umbrella scheme comprising Khadi Vikas Yojana (KVY) and Gramodyog Vikas Yojana (GVY); provides budgetary support for Khadi and village industries.
• Modified Market Development Assistance (MMDA): Deregulates Khadi pricing, enabling market-based competitiveness.
• Interest Subsidy Eligibility Certificate (ISEC): Concessional loans for working capital and capital expenditure.
• Workshed Scheme: Financial support for individual and group work sheds to improve productivity and working conditions.
• Khadi Reform and Development Programme (KRDP): Renovation and modernization of Khadi sales outlets to increase incomes and employment for spinners and weavers.
• Prime Minister’s Employment Generation Programme (PMEGP): Promotes self-employment through micro-enterprises for individuals aged 18+, strengthening the rural MSME ecosystem.
• Entrepreneurship and Skill Development Programmes (ESDPs): Capacity-building for youth and artisans; promotion through exhibitions, trade fairs, fashion shows, dedicated outlets, and digital platforms.
• Digital Outreach: eKhadiIndia.com enhances market access by integrating Khadi producers with e-commerce and wider stakeholders.

Conclusion

In today’s Aatmanirbhar Bharat era, Khadi is far more than a fabric—it is a quiet movement of self-respect, self-reliance, sustainability, and inclusive growth. By combining tradition with technology, local livelihoods with global markets, and heritage with innovation, Khadi strengthens India’s rural economy while reinforcing national identity. With sustained policy support, market integration, and citizen participation, Khadi can continue to empower artisans, preserve cultural heritage, and contribute meaningfully to India’s long-term development vision.

Khadi, rooted in Gandhian ideals of Swadeshi and Gram Swaraj, represents far more than hand-spun fabric. It embodies self-reliance, dignity of labor, sustainable livelihoods, and rural resilience.

• In the contemporary context of Aatmanirbhar Bharat, climate action, and inclusive growth, Khadi has re-emerged as a strategic instrument linking agriculture, cottage industries, sustainability, and rural employment.

Khadi–Agriculture Symbiosis and Livelihood Security

Khadi provides income diversification for small and marginal farmers, especially during lean agricultural periods. By offering off-season employment, it enhances livelihood security and reduces vulnerability to climatic shocks and crop failures.

• Women benefit significantly through home-based spinning and weaving, promoting economic independence and social empowerment without requiring large capital or migration.

Economic Contribution and Rural Employment

Khadi and Village Industries have emerged as a major rural economic engine:

• Turnover (FY 2024–25): Rs. 1.70 lakh crore
• Employment: ~1.94 crore people (up from 1.30 crore in 2013–14)
• KVIC turnover (FY 2023–24): Rs. 1.55 lakh crore
• Sales growth: 400% and production growth: 315% since 2013–14
• New jobs created (last decade): 10.17 lakh, reflecting 81% employment growth

By reducing distress migration and strengthening village economies, Khadi contributes to GDP growth, rural industrialization, and the goal of Doubling Farmers’ Income.

Conclusion

Khadi continues to embody simplicity, dignity of labor, and economic independence, while evolving into a symbol of sustainable living and inclusive growth. Deeply intertwined with agriculture, it strengthens rural resilience through local production, employment generation, and environmental stewardship.

As India moves towards Amrit Kaal and India@2047, Khadi can emerge as a flagship of green, inclusive, and self-reliant development, positioning India as a global leader in ethical and sustainable production.

Khadi occupies a unique space at the intersection of environmental sustainability, cultural heritage, and rural livelihoods. Long before sustainability became a global concern, Khadi exemplified low-energy production, decentralized craftsmanship, and ethical consumption. Rooted in the freedom movement and Gandhian philosophy, Khadi today stands reimagined as both a climate-smart textile and a living heritage craft, central to India’s inclusive and green development pathway.

Institutional Support and Heritage Governance

Post-Independence, the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) was established to institutionalise Khadi as a rural development and heritage instrument. Government support recognises Khadi’s dual role—economic and cultural—through schemes such as:

• Khadi Gramodyog Vikas Yojana (KGVY): Support to Khadi institutions, artisan training, and production infrastructure

• SFURTI: Cluster-based regeneration of traditional industries, including Khadi

• Khadi Mark certification: Ensures authenticity and protects heritage value
• State Khadi Boards: Local-level promotion, awareness, and employment generation
• Centre of Excellence for Khadi (CoEK): Design innovation linking heritage craft with contemporary markets

Museums like the National Charkha Museum and branding campaigns further strengthen Khadi’s cultural narrative.

Modernization, Innovation, and Global Appeal

To remain relevant, Khadi is integrating tradition with innovation:

• Solar-powered charkhas reduce drudgery and emissions
• Digital platforms (eKhadiIndia) expand market access
• Designer interventions blend rustic aesthetics with modern silhouettes
• Eco-conscious global fashion increasingly values Khadi’s traceability and ethical origins

Khadi today features in luxury fashion, home décor, and lifestyle products, appealing to global consumers seeking sustainable and slow fashion.

Challenges & Way Forward in Sustainability and Heritage Preservation

Conclusion

Khadi represents a rare convergence of ecology, economy, culture, and ethics. It is not merely a fabric but a living heritage, a sustainable livelihood system, and a philosophy of harmony between nature, craft, and community.

As India advances towards Amrit Kaal and India@2047, Khadi can serve as a flagship of green development, cultural preservation, and self-reliant rural transformation, demonstrating that the solutions to modern challenges often lie in time-tested indigenous wisdom.